Dyeing Baskets, How to Dye Baskets

Baskets made of machine-cut and smoothed materials are generally improved by color. But the materials that are gathered and prepared by the weaver never really need any improving. However, some of the expert weavers among the mountain folk down in Kentucky peel their willows and treat them in a way that does give a pleasing variety to their baskets, even if it is not an actual improvement over the original color. For a warm gray they boil the peeled switches with onion skins. To get a brown that is lighter and has more yellow in it than that of the willow bark, they peel the switches and then boil them with these peelings. And strange as it may seem, the brown that is got from the peelings is different from that of the peelings themselves when they are still on the switches.

Both of these methods are simple and easy to follow. Of course there are other vegetable dyes - the kind that went into the dye-pot of our grandmothers, smartweed for yellow, goldenrod flowers with fustic for buff, black walnuts chopped when green and boiled for a green-brown, madder for red, and wildroot for blue. But to brew these requires unlimited patience, the kind those grandmothers had. And what is the use when prepared dyes and stains can be bought that need only the addition of a color sense in the mixing to bring about beautiful results?

The color may be applied to the material before it is woven or after the basket is finished. Both methods have their advantages. If the color is mixed with water the material must be dyed before weaving, for if the woven basket were wet it would probably warp in the drying. By dyeing the material first, colored stripes and simple patterns in color are possible through the use of different colored weavers. This dyeing before weaving is, however, not an economical method, because some material of each color is usually left over, and even if it is only a little, both it and the dye are wasted.

Package dyes are now on the market, under various trade names, that are advertised as usable for basket materials, including raffia. And then there are dyes known as basic that can be bought in bulk and may be used with either water or alcohol. When dissolved in the latter the color is applied after the basket is woven, and the directions for that will be put down a little later under the second method of coloring.

The basic dyes do not dissolve readily in water without the addition of a little acetic acid (or vinegar). So for each spoonful of dye powder two spoonfuls of acid or strong vinegar must be used, and the two ingredients dissolved in about a quart of hot water. This strong dye liquor can then be added to the water in the dye-pot in the quantity needed to produce the desired shade. Basic dyes will color silk and wool, too, but in that case the strong dye liquor must be strained through a cloth before going into the pot, in order to remove particles of undissolved dye. Spots or streaks on basket material usually improve instead of marring the effect, so that here the straining is not necessary. These dyes are so powerful that only a very little is needed to bring a full color. But the material must remain in the dye-pot and be kept near the boiling-point long enough to allow the dye to permeate the fiber thoroughly. A good plan is to put it into a warm bath and bring it gradually to the boiling-point ; after that it can remain in the dye as long as is necessary.

These dyes are as harsh in color as they are powerful. That, however, is easily remedied. If a color is too sharp a little of each of the other two will soften and gray it. For instance, if the, red seems glary, a little yellow and blue will tone it down. But too much blue will make it purple, while an over-amount of yellow will change the red to orange. The safest way is to add the color drop by drop from the end of a glass rod or a dropper.

If a basket is colored after it is made, not only the basic dyes are available, but also many of the commercial wood stains and paints. But to finish with the basic dyes - when applied after the basket is woven. They dissolve readily in alcohol and for economy the denatured alcohol is the kind to get. The colors may be mixed to get other colors, just as when the dye was dissolved in water, and the solution applied with a brush. One with rather stiff bristles will get the color into the crevices of the weave better than a soft brush. The color always grows darker as the alcohol evaporates, so that one should use a solution that looks as if it would be too light.

Continue: How to Stain, Wax, Varnish Baskets.