Decorative Stitches for Sewing Lingerie

Supposing all the lovely laces and embroideries that are shown in profusion by the shopkeepers were to disappear and neither time nor inclination allowed one to do the delicate French embroidery. There would still be at least three dainty finishes for lingerie, all of them made out of the fine, soft nainsook itself.

First, one could have a scalloped edge made of two thicknesses of material. And this is how to make it: Baste together two strips of nainsook one and a half inches wide, and enough of them to meet the required length of finishing edge. Cut these on either the warp or weft thread. Make a paper pattern one and a quarter inches wide and a foot long containing twelve scallops, each three-eighths of an inch deep. Pin the pattern on a strip of double nainsook and follow close to the edge of each scallop with the sewing-machine. When the end of the pattern is reached, move it down and continue stitching until all the strips are scalloped. Then cut away all but a one-eighth-inch seam around the curves and turn the finished trimming right side out. To apply it, stitch one of the straight edges to the garment, seam on the right side, make a narrow turning on the other straight edge, and baste it down over the stitching. Feather-stitching or one of the other linear stitches would be an attractive way of holding it down permanently; however, machine-stitching very close to the edge is a neat, quick finish.

For a ribbon run, stitch again one-half inch above the bottom row either with the ornamental stitch or the machine. Nightgowns topped by colored scallops are charming. The nainsook may be dyed fast color at home.

As to the second finish, it was no one less than Poiret who introduced to us lingerie trimmed with narrow colored bindings. His models were made of handkerchief linen, having the palest violet, yellow, green or rose binding that never exceeded a fourth inch in widththe least bit more and the effect is clumsy and heavy. Of course no machine-stitching must show on a binding as narrow as that. The first edge may be machined, but the second must be hemmed down by hand. Strips cut on a true bias are best for bindings, unless the edge to be bound must be stayed as well as finished.

The third material trimming consists of rufflings made of bias strips, only the strips must not be put on full at all. Just ease them on, and, being bias, the free edge will ripple a little. They are more attractive in most places than straight ruffles, fit smoother under outer clothing, and are less trouble to launder. Do not have them over one and a quarter inches wide finished. More like a frill they are than a ruffle. Roll and whirl the unattached edge. A nice touch is to whip one way with colored embroidery cotton and then back again the opposite direction. Or crochet a picot edge directly to the frill. But the most fascinating finish of all is a single loop tatting whipped to the edge. However, that is getting into laces, and they were not to be considered in three ways for self-trimming lingerie.

Decorative stitches for joining seams.

It is easier not to join frills and garment until both are finished. Then roll and whip the un-trimmed edge of the frill and draw it up ever so slightly, just enough to emphasize the roll between each whipping-stitch. Next roll the garment edge an inch at a time, and whip the frill to it with a stitch that catches under only a few threads of the frill roll, but passes completely around the roll of the garment.

An effective edge that is easily made.

The "open-seam" stitches illustrated in the diagrams may also be used to join frill and garment with a pretty effect that is rapidly got. Work them either in white or in a color like that used on the rolled hem of the frill. The stitches are so simple that the diagrams explain them without further words. Both the edge of the garment and the edge of the frill should be rolled for a space of three or four inches and then joined for that distance, then a little more rolling followed by the joinery stitch. Heavy hard-twist cotton must be used; regular embroidery cotton or just a very coarse sewing-thread will answer.

Decorative little yokes and bands may be made by a combination of the "open-seam" stitches and narrow bands of the material. The latter must not be more than three-eighths of an inch wide. Cut the strips for them on the straight of the goods - unless the yoke is curved - and cut them twice the finished width plus seams. Stitch the edges of the strips together on the machine and turn this long, narrow tube right side out by sewing one open end to a bodkin and then running the latter through the tube. Press the bands before attempting to join them, and have the seam come on an edge in the pressing.

One of the joinery stitches is nothing but the embroidery buttonhole, that same useful stitch that one finds applied in a hundred and one forms. Rarely does a piece of French lingerie have its lace edge or medallions set into the material in any other way than with a close buttonhole-stitch. Undoubtedly that is the greater part of the secret of their daintiness. All raw edges or double seams between lace and cloth are eliminated, and the narrow ridge of buttonholing that takes their place is really an additional embellishment.

Another way the French needlewomen achieve the daintiness of their work is by using the finest quality of embroidery hemstitching, "entre deux", for joining seams or wherever the buttonhole joinery would not be practical. And this they apply to the garment with a narrow whipped seam, never a double one like a French seam. Though neat, that would be far too wide and heavy.

Needle in position for making the bar in the Venetian ladder stitch work with blunt end first.

The Venetian ladder stitch shows another application of the buttonhole-stitch. The little bars are a ribbon run as well as a decoration. This and the pointed edge both come from Italian lace and cut work, which is, by the way, a good place to look for trimming-stitches for all manner of purposes. Most libraries have at least one or two books with lace plates, and if nothing better can be had, the bound numbers of household magazines. They frequently print "lace pages" containing excellent examples clearly reproduced.

And in speaking of laces, what about laces as a practical underwear trimming? Yes, if they are the heavy kind like Cluny, torchon, Maltese, and Irish crochet; but no, if they are on fine nets like Valenciennes. One feminine economist decided that it would be a better investment for her to buy French embroidered lingerie - and every woman knows it costs - rather than spend time and money mending or replacing laces on partly worn garments. However, that statement is too inclusive. The linen laces do wear very well, and need not be the heavy kind to give good service.

Lace does require more time to apply than embroidery edging, because a lace should be put on by hand. The machine never gives it quite the right "look." And another thing, beware of too much fullness in a lace edge. Nothing steals away the airy lightness of a lace-trimmed bit than too much ruffling of the lace. Just a little more than ease it on, and that will be fullness aplenty. There is a heavy thread along the edge of machine-made laces with which to draw them up.

And finally, when all the rest is finished, come the buttons and buttonholes, unless it is one of those "slip-overs" that do not have either. The trouble one has when making a buttonhole in lingerie is usually due to the fine, soft material a difficult body to make firm stitches on unless they are deepand that will not do because the buttonhole would be clumsy. A good plan is to baste a strip of firm material to the under side of the sheer stuff, work the buttonholes through both, and when all of them are finished cut the firm material away, cutting close against the stitches. Another point, buttonholes are easier to make, are improved in appearance, and wear quite as well when made of fine thread. Also use a needle as fine as possible.

The four-holed pearl button without ornamental cutting is the typical underwear variety, unless one can get the linen kind that is washable. They are made of fine collar-linen stretched over a bone or composition foundation. Those with metal base are not safe in the long run, as the protecting coat of the metal wears off, and rust soon comes through the linen cover on to the garment. When buying pearl buttons make a point of getting the same style every time and your underwear will always be fastened with matched buttons.

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