Mending Table Linen

If ever there is a place where a stitch in time will save nine it is on table linen. But it must be taken before the least hole appears. And in order to ward off the hole the linen that has been in service for some time should be carefully examined against a strong light for thin places before it goes to the laundry. If any do show, these may be reinforced by darning before they are subjected to another attack of the laundress. Darning before the hole arrives not only saves stitches, but it also saves the appearance of the linen. The pattern being unbroken, it is quite an easy matter to follow the original skips of the weave with the darning-needle, and in this way retain the pattern unmarred by stitches. But if there is a hole there is nothing to be done but lay foundation stitches in one direction and then weave across them. Of course, the weaving of the pattern or its background may even then be imitated, but that is a tedious process and is hardly worth while on old linen.

There are, however, a few points that apply to hole-darning that it is worth while to observe. Do not trim away the frayed edges of the hole, leaving a clean outline. That kind of preparation helps to reveal the finished darn. Cut away only the longest threads. Always lay the threads for the weaving with the threads of the fabric and carry these, and the weaving-threads as well, beyond the hole with small running stitches, so that they are anchored in firm material. The cloth immediately around a hole is sure to be weak.

This last point applies to the mending of rents and hedge tears in linen as well as to worn holes. But before detailing the methods of treating these, the general points that apply to all the mending of linen must be collected in a group.

For table linens ravelings of the same linen are usually the best for darning, but are not, as a rule, obtainable. So the next best thing is the linen darning-floss that can be got either at the linen-counter or in the embroidery department of the shops. It comes in all weights, and a size to correspond with the thread of the cloth should be selected. The needle must be the finest that will carry the thread. A long-eyed crewel-needle can be used much finer than the ordinary round-eyed sharps needle. When changing the direction of a darn always leave a small loop, a very small one, at the turn. This allows for shrinkage of the darning-thread in laundering and also for "give" in the stretch of the material. The line of loops should be an irregular one, so that the strain is distributed instead of coming on the same threads the length of the darn. An unstarched piece of linen is easier to ply with the needle, but it does shift in an annoying way unless the portion in which the darn is to be-made is basted on a stiff piece of paper. This completes the general methods that may be applied to every form of darning that is required by household linen.

The hedge tear, that two-sided rent which more frequently befalls linen when it is dried among shrubs or bushes, and the-straight tear or cut, are the two kinds of darning, besides the hole, that one most often has to mend in household linen.

The hedge tear is the more difficult of the two. Start well beyond the beginning of the rent and darn back and forth in the material. When the tear is reached with the darning draw its edges together, using the fine drawing stitch. This stitch is illustrated with needle in position below. Continue the darning beyond the tear on each side for a space of about one-half inch. As the corner is approached spread the rows of darning stitches at their outer ends and contract them at their inner ends, so as to make a fan-shaped turn around the corner. Finish the second side of the tear like the first one just described.

Needle in position for fine drawing. When the material is weak darn beyond each stitch.

Straight tears and cuts are mended like one side of a hedge tear. See picture. Sometimes, in order to strengthen them, a second layer of stitches, crossing the first at right angles, is put in. This makes the mended place quite apparent, and so cannot be used on table linen.

When a hole is too large to darn, and the article is worth the work, it may be mended with a patch. Of course this would not do in table linens, but the patch will lengthen the usefulness of bed linen and may also be used on kitchen aprons; in fact, wherever the laundering is the first consideration and appearance secondary. The process of its construction may be divided into six steps, so that is the way it is set down here:

1. Determine the required size for the patch by measuring across the hole on both warp and weft, plus the worn part around the hole. If the two measures are nearly the same, plan for a square patch.
2. Cut the patch from old material or from new stuff of a lighter quality than that of the article to be mended. Allow three-eighths inch for seams on all four sides.
3. Turn down the edges of the patch one-eighth inch to the right side.
4. Crease the article on the warp and weft threads so that the creases cross approximately through the center of the hole. Crease the patch in the same way.
5. Place the right side of the patch against the wrong side of the article, matching creases; also, be sure that the warp of the patch runs with the warp of the article. Baste the patch near its edges and then hem down.
6. Crease diagonally across article and patch after they are sewed together. Cut the article on these creases to within a scant three-eighths inch of the corner of the hemming stitches. This will free triangular portions of the article. Cut these off, allowing a scant three-eighths inch beyond the hemming stitches. Turn down the edges one-eighth inch and hem them down against the patch.

Note: Always hem opposite sides, beginning in a corner without a knot and finishing in the opposite corner. The two lines of hemming stitches on each side of the patch should be parallel and not more than a quarter-inch apart. The corners should be right angles. Fine thread is quite strong enough and not so discernible. Use a thread two sizes finer than the size that would be suitable for machine-stitching the article. If there is a pattern or check in the material it must be matched with the patch.

Continue: Damask Table Linen.